The salmon streams are where the bears are through the summer. Rivers on the island's southwest side, including the Karluk and the Frazer river system, hold the biggest concentrations when the runs are on, with bears fishing the shallows and the falls and cubs learning alongside them.

The tidal flats and sedge meadows hold bears earlier in the season, before the salmon arrive, when they graze on new grass at the head of the bays. Boat-based viewing from a chartered vessel works well here and lets you watch from the water at a safe distance.

The sea cliffs and coast add the marine layer: puffins, kittiwakes and cormorants on the rock, sea otters rafting in the kelp, harbour seals and Steller sea lions hauled out, with whales offshore through the summer.

The island's rivers and lakes also hold some of the highest-density bald eagle populations anywhere, so easily seen that visitors stop noticing them.

July through September is the season, tracking the salmon runs; the timing of specific runs varies by river and year, so ask operators what is running when you book rather than assuming a fixed date.

Practicalities

Kodiak town is reached by jet from Anchorage, and from there day trips by floatplane are the usual way in — weather cancels flights regularly, so build slack into an itinerary that has to connect onward. Remote public-use cabins can be reserved inside the refuge for those equipped to be self-sufficient in bear country.

Guided viewing is strongly advised. These are the largest brown bears in the world, the terrain is open, and the difference between a good encounter and a bad one is entirely down to how you behave.