The river frontage and channels are the core. Elephants cross between islands and feed on the winterthorn pods, often shoulder-deep; hippo pods and crocodiles hold the deeper water, and the fish eagle call is the constant soundtrack.

The winterthorn floodplain just inland is where the classic Lower Zambezi photographs come from: big herds under an open canopy with dust and low sun. Buffalo move through in their hundreds, and the resident lion prides follow them.

Canoeing the side channels is the signature activity here. Drifting silently at water level puts you level with elephants on the bank and hippo at uncomfortably close range — which is why it is done with a guide who knows how to read them. Half-day paddles are the norm; multi-day trips run downstream with camps set up along the way.

The escarpment woodland at the back of the park is thicker and holds fewer visitors and more leopard, and is where guided walks tend to go.

The dry season from June to October is the window, sharpening through September and October. Many camps close entirely during the rains from December to March, when the valley floor becomes impassable.

Practicalities

Lower Zambezi sits directly opposite Zimbabwe's Mana Pools across the river, and the two share the same valley and much of the same wildlife — some itineraries combine them. Access is usually by light aircraft from Lusaka to Jeki or Royal airstrips, or a road-and-boat transfer. Tiger fishing is a serious draw here in its own right, and most camps offer it alongside game viewing.