The Xakanaxa area, at the tip of the Mopane Tongue, is the reserve's most consistently productive ground. Several lion prides use it, leopard are regular, and the lagoon holds one of the region's great heronries — a breeding colony of storks, herons, egrets and darters that is at its best in the middle of the year.

The Khwai river, along the northern boundary, has open floodplains that draw big dry-season herds and is the classic ground for African wild dog, along with leopard and lion. The adjoining Khwai community area is one of the few places in the delta permitting night drives, walking and mokoro trips together, which is why many visitors split their nights between the reserve and the concession.

The Third Bridge area in the centre gives open plains and channel crossings, and is the practical base for self-drivers, with a well-known public campsite and boat access into the waterways.

The floodplain margins throughout hold the delta specialities: red lechwe in the shallows, and, with patience and a boat, the elusive sitatunga deep in the papyrus.

The dry season from June to October concentrates game hardest, coinciding with the arriving flood. First and last light matter most, and wild dogs in particular hunt in the cool of early morning.

Practicalities

Moremi can be driven independently from Maun via South Gate or North Gate, but only in a properly equipped high-clearance 4x4 with recovery gear — the tracks are deep sand and seasonal water crossings, several hours of hard driving, and not a trip for a standard rental. Campsites inside the reserve must be booked well in advance and cannot be arranged at the gate.

Everyone else flies in from Maun to a camp's own airstrip, which takes minutes and removes the difficulty entirely.