The Rufiji river is the reason to come here rather than to a northern-circuit park. Boat safaris drift past hippo pods, enormous crocodiles and elephants coming down to drink, with skimmers working the sandbars and fish eagles overhead. Seeing big game from water rather than a vehicle is a genuinely different experience and Nyerere does it as well as anywhere in East Africa.

The lake system — Tagalala, Manze, Nzerakera and the others — are shallow, palm-fringed lakes left by the shifting river. They hold the highest concentrations of game in the dry season and are the best areas for lion and for the park's large buffalo herds.

The woodland and sand rivers away from the water are where African wild dog are found. Nyerere holds one of the largest remaining populations on the continent, and packs den here in the middle of the year.

Walking safaris are permitted and are part of what defines the place. Guided walks work the riverine forest and lake margins, at a completely different pace from a vehicle.

The dry season from June to October concentrates game and is when most camps operate; several close through the rains from March to May.

Practicalities

Access is by light aircraft from Dar es Salaam — under an hour — or a long drive. Nyerere pairs naturally with Ruaha for a southern circuit that sees a fraction of the visitor numbers of the north.

One piece of context worth knowing: the park was created from the northern photographic section of the Selous, and a controversial hydropower dam has been built on the Rufiji within the wider ecosystem. It is worth reading about where you are before you go.