The display courts on the forest floor hold the Arfak's most sought-after species. The Western parotia clears a patch of ground and performs a ballerina-like dance with its flank plumes spread; the magnificent bird of paradise displays on a vertical sapling, showing an iridescent green breast shield to a female above. Both are watched from hides a couple of metres away.

The canopy leks hold the Magnificent riflebird and the black sicklebill, whose long tail streamers and metallic calls come from high in the trees at dawn.

The trails around the villages of Mingre, Syoubri and Kwau are where the accessible birding is, at around 1,500 metres, with local families running the homestays and the hides.

The higher forest holds the Vogelkop bowerbird, which builds an elaborate hut-shaped bower and decorates it with sorted piles of coloured fruit, flowers and beetle wings — one of the most extraordinary structures made by any animal.

The wider bird list includes numerous New Guinea endemics found nowhere else, and the mammal fauna — cuscus, tree kangaroo — is largely nocturnal and heavily hunted.

The drier months are easier for the steep, muddy trails, but the birds display year-round with peaks varying by species.

Practicalities

Access is via Manokwari, reached by domestic flights, then several hours by 4x4 up a rough mountain road. Accommodation is village homestays with basic facilities, cold water and simple food.

Guiding and hide access are organised through the villages, and the payments are the direct reason these forests and their display sites are protected rather than cleared or hunted. Bring warm clothes for pre-dawn hides at altitude, and expect early starts every day.