Komodo and Rinca islands hold the dragons, at the Loh Liang and Loh Buaya ranger posts respectively. Walks are short, on marked trails, and always accompanied by rangers carrying forked sticks — these are large predatory animals with a serious bite, and the escort is not theatre. Rinca is generally the more reliable of the two for sightings and is closer to Labuan Bajo.

Karang Makassar, often called Manta Point, is a shallow current-swept stretch where reef mantas queue at cleaning stations and feed in the flow. Snorkellers see them as readily as divers here, which is unusual.

Batu Bolong and Castle Rock in the central strait are the classic dives: pinnacles wrapped in hard coral with dense schooling fish and sharks, and currents strong enough that they are for experienced divers only.

Padar island is the landscape stop — a steep climb to the viewpoint over three differently coloured bays — and Pink Beach nearby is the easy snorkelling site with good coral straight off the sand.

April to November is the practical season, with the calmest seas and best visibility; manta activity is strongest when plankton is abundant, often in the shoulder months.

Practicalities

Everything runs from Labuan Bajo on Flores, reached by air from Bali. Trips range from day boats to multi-night liveaboards, and the difference in what you see is substantial — the best dive sites are hours from town.

Park entrance and activity fees have changed repeatedly in recent years and have been the subject of considerable public argument, so confirm current rates and which islands are open with your operator when booking rather than relying on older figures.