Monfragüe National Park is the raptor destination. The Salto del Gitano cliff above the Tagus holds one of Europe's densest concentrations of breeding griffon vultures, along with black vulture, Egyptian vulture, Spanish imperial eagle and Bonelli's eagle — all visible from roadside viewpoints without walking a step.

The steppes around Trujillo and Cáceres hold the open-country specialities: great and little bustard, pin-tailed and black-bellied sandgrouse, montagu's harrier and stone curlew. These are found by driving quiet farm tracks slowly in the early morning and scanning.

The dehesa itself holds azure-winged magpies in noisy parties, hoopoes, woodchat shrikes, and the black vultures that nest in the old oaks — Spain holds the great majority of the world population.

The towns are part of the birding: white storks nest on the churches and rooftops of Trujillo and Cáceres, lesser kestrels colonise the old buildings, and both are watched from a café table.

March to May is the peak — breeding raptors, displaying bustards and wildflowers. Winter brings cranes in tens of thousands to the dehesa, feeding on acorns, which is a spectacle in its own right.

Practicalities

Madrid and Seville are the usual arrival points, both two to three hours by road. A hire car is essential; the birding is spread across quiet country roads where you will often see nobody for an hour.

Trujillo makes the best base for the steppes and Monfragüe both. Local guides here are excellent and know exactly which fields hold bustards this week — the birds move, and the region is large.