The Hortobágy fishponds are the main site, a huge complex of shallow ponds with a narrow-gauge railway running through it and hides along the dykes. Pygmy cormorant, ferruginous duck, squacco and purple heron, whiskered tern and spoonbill all breed here in numbers.

The open puszta holds the steppe specialities: great bustard displaying in spring, stone curlew, Montagu's harrier, and the red-footed falcon colonies that nest in old rook nests — Hortobágy is one of the best places in Europe for them.

The autumn crane roost is the region's great spectacle. Tens of thousands of common cranes stage here on migration through October and November, feeding on stubble by day and flying in to roost on the shallow water at dusk in long, calling skeins.

The grazing herds of grey cattle, racka sheep with their spiral horns, and water buffalo are managed traditionally and are part of what maintains the grassland.

Spring brings breeding and display; autumn brings the cranes. Winter holds geese and raptors including the white-tailed eagles that are common here.

Practicalities

Hortobágy village and Tiszafüred are the bases, around two to three hours east of Budapest. Some areas of the park require a permit and a guide, particularly the strictly protected zones and the bustard areas — arrange through the park directorate or a local birding guide.

The park is also a designated dark sky park, and the puszta at night is worth staying out for.