The Dhikala zone is the classic. Its vast chaur grasslands beside the Ramganga reservoir hold herds of wild elephant, hog deer and swamp deer, with tigers hunting the edges and the reservoir itself holding gharial, mugger crocodile and otters. Staying at the Dhikala rest house gives you dawn and dusk here, which day visitors cannot have.

The Bijrani and Jhirna zones are more accessible from Ramnagar and hold good tiger densities in denser forest, with Jhirna staying open year-round when other zones close.

The Ramganga river is the park's spine and worth watching from any vantage point — elephants crossing, fish eagles and ospreys overhead, and the mahseer that made this river famous with anglers.

The Kosi river and the forest outside the park boundary are surprisingly productive at dawn, particularly for birds — Corbett's list runs past 600 species, including ibisbill on the shingle in winter and a long list of Himalayan foothill specialities.

November to February is comfortable and best for birds; March to June is hot and best for tiger sightings as water concentrates animals.

Practicalities

Most zones close for the monsoon, roughly mid-June to mid-November, with Jhirna and Dhela generally remaining open. Permits are booked online in advance by zone and shift, and Dhikala's rest houses require booking months ahead.

Ramnagar is the gateway, around six hours by road from Delhi or overnight by train. Note that the park's fame means the surrounding area is heavily developed with resorts — staying inside, where permitted, is a different experience entirely.