Tadoba's core zones — Moharli, Kolara and Navegaon among them — surround Tadoba lake and the Andhari river. The lake itself is the classic set piece: tigers come to drink and swim in the heat, and marsh crocodiles line the banks. Tadoba is also among the better reserves for sloth bear and for the striking Indian gaur, the world's largest wild cattle.

Pench's zones, entered mainly from Turia and Karmajhiri, are gentler country along the Pench river, with meadows that hold large herds of chital and the highest prey density of any of these forests. This is the landscape that inspired Kipling's Jungle Book, and it is excellent for dhole — the Indian wild dog — hunting in packs.

The buffer zones around both reserves are worth taking seriously rather than treating as second best. Permits are easier, vehicle numbers are lower, and tigers move through them constantly.

March to May is the peak tiger window: the forest is leafless, water is scarce, and animals concentrate at the remaining pools. It is punishingly hot, which is the trade. October to February is far more comfortable with excellent birding and greener forest, but sightings are harder.

Practicalities

Core zones close for the monsoon, roughly July to September, while buffer zones generally stay open — check the current dates before planning, as they shift year to year.

Safaris run in two fixed shifts, morning and afternoon, in shared or private jeeps with a compulsory guide, and permits are released online well in advance and sell out for peak dates. Nagpur is the airport for both reserves, a few hours' drive from either.