Ol Pejeta Conservancy is the best known, holding East Africa's largest black rhino population and the last two northern white rhinos on Earth, kept under armed guard. It also runs a chimpanzee sanctuary for animals rescued from the illegal trade — not a wild population, but a legitimate rescue operation.

Lewa and Borana, joined into a single wildlife area, are rhino strongholds and among the best places anywhere to see Grevy's zebra, the endangered northern species with narrow stripes and rounded ears. Both offer walking and horseback riding among plains game.

Loisaba and the northern conservancies are drier and wilder in feel, with elephant moving through on ancient corridors between Mount Kenya and Samburu, and star beds for sleeping out.

The community conservancies of the wider Northern Rangelands Trust are where the most interesting conservation work is happening — Samburu and other pastoralist communities managing wildlife alongside livestock, with the grazing plans and peace-building that requires.

Wild dog are a genuine draw across Laikipia, which holds one of Kenya's most important populations, and predator research here is long-established.

The dry seasons of June to October and January to February are best, but Laikipia's altitude keeps it green and comfortable year-round.

Practicalities

Most conservancies are reached by light aircraft from Nairobi or a four-hour drive. Costs are generally higher than the national parks, and what you buy is exclusivity and access — fewer vehicles, and activities the parks do not allow. Conservancy fees are usually built into the nightly rate and go directly to the landowners and communities running them.