The lake shore and surrounding grassland are where both rhino species are found. White rhino graze in the open in family groups and are easy; black rhino browse the thicker acacia scrub and take more looking. Nakuru is one of the best places in Kenya to see both in a morning.

The yellow fever tree forest on the eastern side is the classic Nakuru landscape and the best area for Rothschild's giraffe — translocated here and now well established — along with waterbuck and the park's leopards, which are seen more often than in most fenced reserves.

Baboon Cliff and the escarpment viewpoints give the overview of the lake and are the place to understand its shape and water level, which change dramatically between years.

The lake itself was historically famous for enormous flamingo flocks. Rising water levels over the past decade have drowned much of the algae they feed on and dispersed the birds to other Rift lakes — flamingos are still present, often in the thousands rather than the millions of the classic photographs. Set expectations accordingly and treat a big flock as a bonus.

The dry seasons of June to September and January to February give the best access. The park is workable year-round.

Practicalities

Nakuru is around three hours from Nairobi on a good road, which makes it the easiest rhino viewing in Kenya and a natural stop between the capital and the Mara.

Rising Rift Valley lake levels have flooded roads, buildings and parts of the shoreline in recent years and continue to change the park's layout — expect some routes to be closed and the shoreline to look different from older guidebooks.