The Talatakely trail network, closest to the entrance, is where most half-day and full-day walks go. Golden bamboo lemur — the species whose discovery in 1986 led to the park's creation — and greater bamboo lemur both feed in the bamboo stands here, along with red-bellied and red-fronted brown lemurs.

The Vohiparara area, higher and cooler, is the birding zone. Ground-rollers, asities, and the fabulous velvet asity are found here, along with the highland lemur species and a very different forest structure.

The night walks on the road outside the park are essential for the small nocturnal species: mouse lemurs and dwarf lemurs, chameleons of several species asleep on branches, and frogs in extraordinary variety — Ranomafana is a global centre of amphibian diversity.

The Namorona river running through the park adds crayfish, kingfishers and the hot springs that gave the village its name.

September to December is the best window — drier, and with reptiles and amphibians active. The forest is wet in any season.

Practicalities

Ranomafana is around ten to twelve hours by road from Antananarivo, usually broken into two days, and is normally combined with Isalo and the southern route.

Guides are compulsory and are hired at the entrance; the trackers who find the lemurs are paid separately and tipping them properly matters. Trails are steep, slippery and muddy — this is one of the more physically demanding parks in Madagascar.