The escarpment grassland is gelada country and the reason most people come. Geladas are the world's only grass-eating primate, live in troops that can number several hundred, and are utterly unbothered by walkers — you can sit among a feeding troop while males display their bare red chests and lip-flip at rivals. The best encounters are around Sankaber and Gich.

The cliff faces hold walia ibex, a wild goat found only in these mountains, best sought around Chennek where they graze precarious ledges below the road and the campsite.

The high moorland above 3,600 metres, particularly on the way to Bwahit and Ras Dashen, is where Ethiopian wolves occur — far scarcer here than in the Bale Mountains, but present.

The cliffs and thermals carry lammergeier — bearded vultures — passing at eye level along the escarpment edge, along with thick-billed ravens and Ethiopian endemics including white-collared pigeon and wattled ibis.

The dry season from October to March gives the clearest views and the best trekking; the rains from June to September bring green slopes and difficult trails.

Practicalities

Debark is the park headquarters and the trailhead, a few hours from Gondar. Scouts are compulsory, guides and mules are hired locally, and lodges and community campsites are spread along the escarpment.

Altitude is the main risk — ascend gradually and know the symptoms. Northern Ethiopia has experienced serious conflict in recent years and the security situation has affected access to this region; check current travel advice and confirm with an operator on the ground before booking.