The Deramakot forest roads are the premier night-driving circuit in Southeast Asia. Clouded leopard is seen here more often than anywhere else on the island; also on the list are marbled cat, Sunda flying lemur gliding between trunks, western tarsier, slow loris, binturong, civets of several species and orangutan nesting overhead. It is a working forest reserve managed under a low-impact logging certification, which is part of why the wildlife has persisted.

Tabin's mud volcanoes are the daytime draw. Natural mineral seeps pull in bearded pig, sambar, elephant and birds to a clearing with a viewing platform — the best chance of daylight mammals in either reserve.

Tabin's roads at night produce a similar list to Deramakot with somewhat easier access, and both hold Bornean pygmy elephant herds that move through unpredictably.

The forest edges and rivers add hornbills, storm's stork and a strong nightbird list including several owl species and frogmouths.

The drier months give better road conditions; heavy rain can close tracks entirely in either reserve.

Practicalities

Both reserves need advance booking and a permit arranged through an operator — Deramakot in particular limits numbers and is usually sold as a multi-night package with a dedicated vehicle and spotter. Access is by 4x4 from Sandakan or Lahad Datu, several hours on logging roads.

This is not a comfortable or a cheap trip, and daytime sightings can be thin. Come for the nights, and bring a good torch and patience.