The trails from park headquarters hold red leaf monkeys, pig-tailed and long-tailed macaques, and Bornean gibbons calling at dawn, along with a strong hornbill list including rhinoceros and wreathed hornbills crossing the valley.

The tallest tree trails lead to individual yellow meranti trees, among the tallest tropical trees recorded anywhere at over 90 metres. Standing beneath one is the point of coming here.

The Sulphur Springs and hot springs along the trail network are the traditional walks, several hours return through good forest with river crossings.

The rivers and streams hold kingfishers, forktails and the occasional otter, and the water is the reason many of the mammals are here.

The night walks around headquarters produce flying squirrels, civets, frogs and the extraordinary insect life of Bornean lowland forest.

The drier months make trails and river crossings easier; rain is possible throughout.

Practicalities

The park is around an hour from Tawau, which has domestic flights. Accommodation is basic park chalets and a campsite, booked through Sabah Parks.

This is a genuinely quiet park — you may have the trails to yourself — and it pairs naturally with Danum Valley or the Semporna islands on a southeastern Sabah trip. Bring leech socks and expect the humidity.