The Karnali river and its channels are the park's spine. Boat trips and riverbank sitting produce gharial and mugger crocodile, and this is one of the few remaining places to see the Gangetic river dolphin — a blind, freshwater dolphin that surfaces briefly in the deeper pools.

The Babai valley, in the park's interior, is the tiger heartland. Grassland and river terraces hold high prey densities, and guided walks and vehicle drives here offer the best odds, particularly in the hot pre-monsoon months when animals come to water.

The grasslands and riverine forest hold one-horned rhino, reintroduced here from Chitwan, along with swamp deer, hog deer, and the wild elephant herds that move between Bardia and India's neighbouring reserves — including some famously large bulls.

The machans and riverbanks are the classic Bardia method: sitting quietly overlooking water for hours rather than driving. It suits patient travelers and photographers and is how most tiger sightings here actually happen.

March to May is the prime tiger window, when the grass is short after the annual cutting and burning, water is scarce and animals concentrate. October to December is cooler and greener with excellent birding and comfortable conditions.

Practicalities

Access is by flight to Nepalgunj followed by a two- to three-hour drive, or a long day's drive from Kathmandu. Thakurdwara is the main gateway village, with community-run lodges that keep money in the buffer zone.

Walking safaris are permitted with licensed guides and are part of what makes Bardia distinctive — and they demand respect: this is a park with tiger, rhino, sloth bear and wild elephant, all of which are dangerous on foot.