Volunteer Point, on East Falkland, holds the archipelago's largest king penguin colony, with gentoos and Magellanics on the same stretch of beach and dune. It is reached from Stanley by a long, rough drive across camp and is the one major site most day visitors see. It sits on private land and access must be arranged in advance.

Saunders Island is the classic multi-species island. The Neck, a narrow isthmus between two hills, puts rockhopper, gentoo, Magellanic and king penguins within a short walk of one another, and a black-browed albatross colony of thousands of pairs sits on the cliffs above — one of the easiest great-albatross colonies in the world to reach on foot.

Sea Lion Island is the mammal island: the Falklands' most important southern elephant seal breeding beach, with bulls hauled out and fighting through October, plus sea lions, orca patrolling offshore in season, and rockhoppers and gentoos ashore.

Carcass Island is rat-free, which means its tussac holds small birds that have vanished elsewhere — Cobb's wren, tussacbird and Falkland thrush come close enough to trip you up — alongside sheltered beaches of gentoos and Magellanic burrows.

October to March is the season: elephant seals ashore in October, penguins on eggs in November and December, chicks through January and February. The wind is constant year-round and shapes every day's plan.

Practicalities

Inter-island travel is by FIGAS, the government air service, flying small aircraft on routes fixed a day ahead according to who has booked — you find out your departure time the evening before, and baggage allowances are strict. Nearly all land is privately owned, so visits are arranged through island owners and lodges; permits are needed for government-owned islands. Book the whole chain of flights and lodges well ahead, since capacity on the small islands is only a handful of beds.