Española, in the far southeast, is the only breeding site in the world for the waved albatross, present roughly from April to December. Its Punta Suárez trail also delivers the archipelago's most colourful marine iguanas and a blowhole-backed cliff of nesting seabirds.

Fernandina and western Isabela are the cold-water islands, fed by the Cromwell upwelling. Punta Espinosa on Fernandina holds vast basking rafts of marine iguanas alongside flightless cormorants, and this is the most reliable region for Galápagos penguins — the only penguin that lives at the equator.

The highlands of Santa Cruz are where wild giant tortoises are found, grazing in farm pasture and pools well above the coastal zone. Tortoise viewing is a highland activity, not a beach one, which surprises many first-time visitors.

North Seymour and Genovesa carry the seabird colonies: blue-footed and Nazca boobies nesting beside the path, magnificent frigatebirds inflating their scarlet throat pouches in display, and on Genovesa, red-footed boobies in the low scrub.

Much of the archipelago's best wildlife is underwater, so bring or rent a mask — snorkelling with sea lions, turtles and reef fish is a routine part of most itineraries rather than an add-on.

Rules that shape the trip

Every visit to a national park site must be accompanied by a certified naturalist guide; this has been the rule since 1975 and there is no independent hiking at visitor sites. You must stay on marked trails, keep about two metres from wildlife even when an animal approaches you, and flash photography is not permitted.

Budget for the fees separately from your tour price: foreign adult visitors pay a national park entrance fee of 200 US dollars, with reduced rates for children and for Andean Community, Mercosur and Ecuadorian nationals, plus a 20 dollar transit control card. Both are paid on arrival at the airport, and the park fee is commonly cash only — check with your operator before you fly.