The Kanha and Kisli zones are the classic core areas, with the largest meadows and the highest concentration of prey. This is where the barasingha — the hard-ground swamp deer that once numbered a few dozen animals and now runs into the hundreds — is reliably seen, a conservation success unique to this park.

The Mukki zone in the southwest has a strong tiger reputation and a rather different, more undulating landscape, and is generally quieter.

The meadows at first light are the method. Vehicles stop, engines off, and listen: chital and langur alarm calls carry across the open ground and are how most tiger sightings begin. Patience at a meadow edge beats driving.

The sal forest itself holds gaur — enormous, and often in the open in the cooler months — dhole packs, sloth bear, and a very good bird list including Indian roller, racket-tailed drongo and several woodpeckers.

March to June is the peak tiger window as water dries up; the heat in May and June is severe. November to February is comfortable and beautiful, with mist on the meadows at dawn.

Practicalities

The park closes for the monsoon, roughly July to September. Safaris run in fixed morning and afternoon shifts by zone, with permits released online in advance — book early for the core zones.

Jabalpur and Nagpur are the usual airports, each a few hours away. Kanha pairs naturally with Bandhavgarh and Pench on a central Indian circuit, and many visitors find Kanha the most attractive of the three even when the tiger count is lower.