The nesting beach is the reason for the park's name and existence. Green turtles come ashore in large numbers from roughly July to October, with leatherbacks earlier in the year from February to May. Nesting tours run at night with licensed guides in small groups, with strict rules: no torches, no flash, no phones, and you follow a guide who is watching for a turtle that has committed to nesting.

The canals and side channels are the daytime wildlife. Paddled or electric boats find caiman, basilisk lizards running across the water, three species of monkey, sloths, river otters and an outstanding bird list — agami heron, sungrebe, great green macaw and kingfishers of five species.

The smaller creeks such as Caño Chiquero and Caño Harold are where the good sightings are; the main canal is a transport route and much busier.

The forest trails behind the village are short but productive for poison dart frogs, eyelash vipers and army ant swarms with attendant birds.

Green turtle nesting peaks around August and September; hatchlings emerge through to around November. The canals are excellent year-round, with the drier months of February to April slightly easier.

Practicalities

Access is by boat from La Pavona or Moín, or by small plane from San José. There are no cars in the village.

Turtle tours must be booked through the village association with a licensed guide, and numbers on the beach each night are capped — this is one of the better-regulated turtle operations in the world, and the rules exist because bright lights and crowds cause turtles to abandon nesting. Take them seriously.