The villus themselves are the whole method. Sit at one and wait: elephants come to drink and bathe, spotted deer and buffalo graze the margins, and leopards use the surrounding scrub. Because vehicle numbers are far lower than at Yala, you can hold a sighting without a queue forming.

The thick dry forest between villus is where sloth bears are found, especially in June and July when palu fruit ripens and bears climb to feed. Wilpattu is one of the better places in Asia for the species, though sightings are always a matter of luck.

The northern sections are quieter still and hold the park's most reliable leopard territories, though the tracks are rougher and the drives longer.

The coastal fringe and tanks add waterbirds — painted stork, pelican, and a good raptor list including white-bellied sea eagle and grey-headed fish eagle.

February to October is the drier window and the best time, with the villus shrinking and concentrating game. The park sees less rain than the south but the northeast monsoon can make tracks difficult around December.

Practicalities

Wilpattu is around three and a half hours from Colombo and combines naturally with Anuradhapura's ruins. Entry is by jeep with a compulsory tracker, arranged through your accommodation.

The park was closed for many years during the civil war, which is part of why it remains quiet and why its wildlife had a long period without visitors. Sightings take more patience than at Yala and the reward is having them to yourself — a trade most experienced wildlife travelers make willingly.