The Kongsvold and Grønbakken area along the E6 is the standard access, with guided musk ox safaris setting out on foot across the fells. Walks are typically several hours over uneven ground; the animals are usually found within that range.

The musk oxen themselves are the point — shaggy, horned survivors of the ice age, reintroduced in the mid-twentieth century after the native population died out. They look docile and are not: they can charge at speed, and the required distance of at least 200 metres exists for good reason. Anyone approaching closer for a photograph is risking their life and the animal's future.

The Snøhetta massif and the Viewpoint pavilion give the landscape context and are good for wild reindeer — Europe's last genuinely wild population — on the higher ground.

The fells generally hold arctic fox, which have been the subject of a long captive-breeding and release programme here, along with ptarmigan, golden plover and dotterel breeding on the tundra.

June to September is the walking season. Winter safaris run on skis or snowshoes for those equipped for it.

Practicalities

Dovrefjell sits on the main railway and road between Oslo and Trondheim, with Oppdal and Kongsvold the usual bases — the train stops within walking distance of the trailheads, which makes this an unusually car-free wildlife destination.

Go with a licensed guide. It costs little, dramatically improves the odds, and the guides carry the knowledge of herd positions and the judgement about how close is safe.