Lake Furen and Shunkunitai hold the winter eagles. Steller's sea eagles and white-tailed eagles gather where fishermen work the ice edge, perching in the shoreline trees in numbers that make a single frame with a dozen birds possible. The Shunkunitai sand spit's forest is also good for Blakiston's fish owl — the world's largest owl, which winters here and is seen at a handful of managed sites.

The Notsuke Peninsula, a long curving sand spit, is the landscape site: a dead forest of salt-killed trees, sika deer standing in snow, and red foxes hunting the tideline. Its shallow bays hold sea ducks — harlequin, long-tailed and both scoters — close inshore.

The Nemuro Strait coast around Rausu is where the drift ice arrives in February, and the eagle cruises out of Rausu harbour are the classic photographic experience of the region.

The wider area in summer is a different place: breeding waders on the marsh, orchids, and boat trips for whales and dolphins.

Late January to early March is the season for the ice, eagles and clean snow. Numbers of Steller's sea eagles fluctuate year to year with ice conditions.

Practicalities

Nemuro and Rausu are the practical bases, reached by road from Kushiro or Memanbetsu airports — a few hours in winter conditions on ploughed but icy roads. A proper winter vehicle and experience of driving on ice are essential.

Much of the best photography here is arranged through local operators who know the eagle and fish owl sites; independent visitors should be careful not to disturb roosting birds, particularly the fish owls.