The forest lodges around Mount Hagen and Tari are the classic bases. Their trails and hides give access to display sites for several birds of paradise — the ribbon-tailed astrapia with tail streamers three times its body length, the blue bird of paradise, the King of Saxony with its extraordinary head plumes, and the Raggiana that is on the national flag.

The Tari valley and the Ambua area in Hela province are the richest birding, at altitude with mossy forest and a long list of endemics. This is where most specialist tours spend their time.

The garden edges and secondary growth around villages are surprisingly productive — many birds of paradise display close to cultivation, and local guides know exactly which tree is in use this season.

The mid-altitude forest adds bowerbirds, including the Macgregor's and the flame bowerbird, plus parrots, honeyeaters and the fruit doves that fill the canopy.

The drier months from May to October make trails and roads easier. Birds display year-round with species-specific peaks.

Practicalities

Access is by domestic flight from Port Moresby. This is not a destination for independent travel: tribal land ownership, variable security and thin infrastructure mean nearly everyone comes on an organised trip, and that is the sensible approach.

The Mount Hagen cultural show in August draws Highland clans in full ceremonial dress and is a major event in its own right, often combined with birding itineraries. Check current travel advice; conditions vary by province and change.