The North Atoll walls drop from the shallows into open blue and are patrolled by grey reef and whitetip sharks, with schooling jacks, barracuda and bumphead parrotfish along the top. Turtles are constant here, resting on ledges and feeding on the reef top in numbers that stop feeling remarkable by day three.

The South Atoll and its lighthouse are the pelagic end of the park: this is where thresher and hammerhead sharks turn up in the blue, and where manta rays and whale sharks are seen in season on the outer walls.

The Malayan wreck at the north atoll's tip is the signature dive, a steep wall with a grounded hull marking the top and heavy fish action along the drop.

The bird islet in the north supports large breeding colonies of seabirds — boobies, terns and frigatebirds — and is a reminder that the park protects far more than the reef, though landing is not permitted.

Diving is only permitted from roughly mid-March to mid-June, when the Sulu Sea is calm enough to make the crossing safely. Outside that window the park is closed to visitors entirely.

Practicalities

Every trip departs Puerto Princesa on Palawan and runs five to seven nights. Conservation fees must be paid before an entry permit is issued, and your liveaboard normally handles both as part of the package.

Book nine to twelve months ahead for April and May dates — the fleet is small and the season is short. If you plan to fly a drone, note that drone permits must be applied for through the park management office well in advance rather than arranged on board.